Sunday, 29 April 2018

The Badger Divide

5 thousand vertical meters, 4 awesome ladies, 3 hundred kilometers, 2 many cafes to count!, 1 cow panic: The Badger Divide - An excellent opportunity to break in the 'Adventure Bike'

Mountains, lochs, and winding paths - The Badger Divide - Incredible

The offical Badger Divide joins up some of the great long distance paths in Scotland, starting in Inverness and finishing in Glasgow. It's ridden as a self supported endurance race over 2 days. We planned for a slightly more leisurely 4 day adventure (not actually leisurely at all!).

Communting to work in the morning,
Note home-made frame and seatpost bags: Amazing what you can do with an Ikea shower curtain and chopping board! (I'm quite proud of these)

Thursday saw us on our train to Inverness (after considerable train stress - I hate you Scotrail). Premier inn however are much more accommodating to cyclists and happily let us store our bikes in our rooms.

Bikes in the lift at Premier inn

After pigging out on breakfast and pinching an emergency cinnamon bagel we set off for the start of the Great Glen Way.

Leaving Inverness along the Caledonian Canal

Unfortunatley in my excitement I'd left my gloves on the train the day before. Caroline however bought 3 pairs and I gratefully borrowed the 'mid layer' pair.

If you'd seen this sign you'd have stopped too!

Carrie and Louise set off about an hour ahead of us the theory being we'd catch them up, this didn't account for my penchant for a cafe. About 20km down the Great Glen Way and less than 2 hours in we spotted a sign saying 'cake'. Of course we stopped. Apparently the highest working croft in Scotland, we were warned to move to the veranda if the pig came and interfered!

Crofting cake break

The descent into Drumnadrochit was a little steeper than I was prepared for. With a high saddle, loaded bike and clipped pedals I nervously edged down the trail. In the village centre we located Carrie and Louise at another cafe, of course it would be rude not to join in!

Drumnadrochit - bonus cafe time
leaving Drumnadrochit

The following sections of the Great Glen Way involved some steep climbs. I was looking forward finding the 'viewcatcher' monument on the next section. We kept telling each other that it would be just at the top of the next hill. Of course in the end it turned out to be in the bottom of a valley. In my head we were going to stop here and spend some vanity time capturing 'the perfect selfie' unfortunately the Scottish weather had other ideas. We took some quick snaps in the rain before heading on.

Messing around at the 'view catcher' 

We once again bumped into Carrie and Louise coming in the opposite direction. After a moment of confusion it transpired that a section of the low road was closed and they were heading up for the high road. In the end we went low road anyway.

Speeding along the Great Glen Way

The sun came out again for the final section into Fort Augustus, providing many opportunities for photo especially at 'podium rock'. Day 1 (according to Strava) was almost 6 hours moving time and over 1,400m of climbing. I was very ready to reach the hostel, I can't imagine what it would be like to do this as part of the race, you'd be less than half way through day 1!

Podium Rock: self timer fun

Day 2 began with the infamous Corrieyiarack Pass. One of General Wade's military roads, rising 800m from the valley floor it joins Fort Augustus to Loch Laggan. I think we were all a bit nervous of the pass (I was anyway). Would it be ride-able by mere mortals, or would we end up pushing to the top?

Only 19km to the other side but with 800 meter straight up, feeling nervous at the beginning of the pass

Our accommodation for the next night was aptly named 'middle of nowhere B&B' they served dinner at 7pm, and there wasn't any other option for food in the valley, the race was on...

Cheeky snack break 400m up

Slow and steady was the name of the game, on the pass. We gained meter after meter, getting ever more impressive views down the valley. About half way up Caroline and I overtook Carrie and Louise. Little did we know this would be the last we'd see of them...

Heading off the top of the pass, (this picture might imply I got to the top before Caroline, which definitely was not the case!)


The higher we climbed the colder it got and the stronger the headwind. At the summit of the pass it was freezing, so rather than waiting we piled on all the layers, took a quick victory snap and headed down.

The top of Corrieyiarack Pass, feeling proud (and also cold)

By the time we reached Melgarve Bothy the sun was back out and sheltered from the wind we began to warm up a little.

Warming up on out of the wind

Unsure where Carrie and Lousie were, we decided to carry on until we found somewhere with phone reception. Of course being the Scottish Highlands, this was quite a long way. By the shores of Loch Laggan we managed to get in touch, they'd had bike troubles and had headed to the bike shop in Wolftrax, some miles off course. Unsure if the bike would be fixed in time to continue or not, this would put dinner chances at serious risk!

Melgarve bothy
Quick stop in Ardverikie Estate 

We agreed Caroline and I would carry on to the B&B, so we could ask them to hold dinner, if Carrie and Louise were to be a bit later. We crossed from valley to valley, head wind after head wind (at least it wasn't raining). It was tough going but the incredible views were worth it.


Spey Reservior

Eventually we arrived at the creepy shooting lodge in Corrour (actually we accidentally went right up the drive to the mansion; we quickly ran away worried we might be shot). In-spite of the headwinds we'd made good time, it looked like we'd arrive in time for dinner in fact we might even have time to shower first (Yes!). Feeling positive we headed around the edge of Loch Ossian, until we reached the path that would take us over to Loch Rannoch.

Lochan na h-Earba

Unfortunately this turned out to be less path and more bog. We pushed our bikes up hill through bog. Suddenly I was worried we'd overestimated. 3 hours and 20 km to dinner is very achievable if you can ride, but if we had to push all the way to Rannoch we'd be much slower.

hike-a-bike in a bog :-(

Happily after about 1km of pushing we joined up with a path call 'road to the isles' which turned out to be a very cyclable track, dinner and shower was very much back on the cards. Of course if we'd looked closer at the map we might have continued a few km down the lochside track and joined the 'road to the isles' at the very start. Tired brains don't always make good choices.

View from 'Peter's Rock'

Racing down the track we got to Bridge of Gaur in good time, and then realised our major screw up. We had no idea where the B&B was, and of course zero phone reception. We did some worried cycling around, and at the last house, still no B&B, however a nice man pointed us back to the main road where we found the nights accommodation, still with 30 mins to shower and change before dinner. Phew!

Big grins: we will arrive in time for dinner

Carrie and Louise had managed to get a message through, they had got the bike fixed but it had taken some time and they'd stop overnight in Laggan. It was a real shame not to have Carrie and Louise with us. I consoled myself by eating their extra puddings for dinner. Day 2 was over 8 hours moving time and 1800m of climbing, I was exhausted.

Day 3 Loch Rannoch shortly before the rain

Day 3 saw the weather take a turn for the miserable, the tracks from Loch Rannoch over to Glen Lyon were a mix of nice single track and atv track and more great scenery. We stopped in Bridge of Balgie for coffee and cake, after 'no cafe Saturday' we were making up for lost time. I also took the opportunity to restock my dwindling supply of jelly babies. (this cafe is where I'd previous waited 3 hours for the RAC to turn up on another trip, the lady even remembered me!)

Crossing into Glen Lyon

The weather really set in as we headed up the Lyon valley, my legs were pretty tired and I just couldn't match pace with Caroline. So in the interest of keeping warm we agreed to go at our own speeds and re group at a cafe in Killin. This was going well, I was plodding on at my own pace over the pass and down to the River Locahy, until Disaster. Cows on the road. With young calves. $&!^ !!! I considered my options. I studied my Garmin. Tere was a way around passing through the farm buildings on the left. I set off through the farm, successfully circumnavigating the danger cows, but did end up being chased by a farm dog.

Sustrans Route 7 near Strathyre

A few miles further on and the sun came out, I found Caroline waiting in a bench just outside Kilin and swapped cow-avoidance strategies, (I discovered Caroline is both braver and stupider than me). In Kilin we tucked into Cafe number 2, before heading on to Sustrans route 7 taking us to our final B&B in Callendar.

Dropping into Callendar

Day 4 saw us heading down the Rob Roy Way and then the West Highland Way to it's end point in Milngavie. Somewhere along the way to Drymen Caroline's hands went alarmingly white with the cold, and I felt a bit more guilty about borrowing her gloves :-s

Dodging walkers on the West Highland Way

After a quick warm up and lunch stop in Drymen, we headed on to down the west highland way, passing through about 101 gates and about as many hikers. Eventually we found ourselves in Milngavie, and after a tiny bit of navigation at the southern end of the west highland way. Victory photos complete we jumped on the train back to Edinburgh, what a trip!

End of West Highland Way

We eventually heard from Carrie and Louise after they'd overnighted in Glen Lyon without phone or internet signal. They had made it to Kilin together and Carrie had continued all the way to Drymen! what an effort! Huge thanks to the both of them for organising the trip, it was tough but amazing, the only downside was that we didn't manage to finish all together.

Badger Divide approximate route

Bikepacking is an incredible way of moving through the landscape, can't wait for more!
Bikepacking -  Love it.

Sunday, 4 March 2018

Lets do something fun. Or stupid, maybe stupid.

One of the things I like about living in Scotland is looking at the weather and selecting an appropriate outdoor activity. But sometimes it’s fun to go and do something wholly unsuitable for the prevailing conditions.

This is the tale of how a 90min ride can turn into a 6 hour epic.


Deep snow: fun but really, really, hard work

Red weather warnings had passed and the snow was thick on the ground. My boating plans had been called off, Laura’s flight to Paris had been cancelled. We were both at a loose end for the weekend, so why not go biking!
The plan: Try to get to the Pentlands and see what we could ride.

2 mins after leaving Laura’s house, we were stopped by a bloke in a 4WD: “you’ll not get much further up road, it’s only ploughed as far as the last house”. Undeterred we carried on, what did he know; we’d spent all winter training for the Puffer of course we can probably cope…

Harlaw Road, shortly after the last house
Pretty soon we reached the last house. Snow had drifted to handlebar-height in places, but there was a clear path where walkers had been through. We intermittently pushed and rode through the snow, the was just a taste of what was to come.

Harlaw Road: Definitely Not Ploughed

The ‘badgers’ path was totally snowed over, so we opted to stick on the ‘road’ to get to Harlaw reservoir. Shortly before the turnoff we bumbled into a digger trying to clear the road from the other direction. We had about 100m of cleared road to cycle on, little did we know this was most we cycle for the next couple of hours.

Maybe we'll not go this way

Turning in to the Harlaw car park, the folks living in the cottage were out clearing their path. They looked at us like we were mad. “What is this, the comedy winter Olympics?”, they laughed at us. I peddled full tilt at the on coming snow drift. Unsurprisingly, my front wheel stuck in the drift and I just about saved myself from going over the handle bars.
We pushed through to the car park exit. I’d suggested, we try to get back toward my house on the tracks. Once through the gate we discovered we couldn’t even see where the track was. Laura pointed out, you could see the sign post marking the next turning, that would give us something to aim for.

Evidence we did some actual riding

Intermittently cycling and pushing we set off, eventually we got to the turning to head back down towards my house. The normal option here is to continue through a gate and climb up the pass through Maidens Cleugh.  I pushed through the gate ‘just to see what it’s like’.  Laura looked at me, “I mean we’ve got all day…”.

Oh more pushing, fun

Before we knew what was happening we were pushing our bikes up the pass, every so often a wind swept piece of path offered 10-20 meters of riding. A group of fell runners passed us with a shout of “Hello fellow Nutters!”.

Two 'Nutters' and their spurious fashion choices

After a lot of pushing and a lot of giggles, we reached the top of the pass. Feeling like heroes we stopped for a quick chocolate break. (Side note: While the rest of Scotland has been panic buying bread and milk, the shops have had no shortage of my essential items. Chocolate, squirty cream and cheese have been available in abundance).

Top of the Pass. We are Heroes.

Since we’d made it to the top of the pass we figured we may as well continue down to Glencorse, and then if it was really bad we could always come home on the roads. The descent was much more rideable than the climb.  Although there were still some patches of deep snow, occasionally sinking up to our waists.  One particularly deep drift caught my front wheel, and I catapulted over the handle bars and landed in soft snow. After a solid minute of laughing, Laura recovered enough to pull my bike off of me.

Descent to Glencouse

Carrying on down hill I stopped to take photos, just as Laura disappeared out of sight I heard a woop and a scream. Gingerly rounding the bend, I found Laura face down in the snow sliding gently toward a gorse bush. Karma.
Pretty soon, some 3hours after setting off, we reached the tarmac road on the other side of the hill. We’d made it halfway round the loop. In for a penny - in for a pound, we might as well complete our usual Pentland loop.

Laura sinks over her wellies

Passing more groups of walkers (funnily no other bikers), we always aimed to be cycling as we passed them ‘looking cool’. Unsurprisingly this failed on most occasions. We did however manage to ride stylishly past one group, “Oh I will give that a round of Applause – well done!”. We rode on to the sound of clapping. Shortly afterwards I sunk up to my waist in another snow drift.

Woo track-stand! (much easier wedged into the snow)

Just as we were getting back to a road we met a rider on a plus bike coming in the opposite direction. He warned us we’d need to be prepared for pushing if we were to continue. We assured him we were now experts at pushing thorough snow.

Back on a tarmac road

On the descent I had my first ever attempt at the single track on the left hand side of the tarmac hill! (My usual right hand side trail was too snow covered as was the tarmac).
Coming to the path round the reservoirs we overtook a group of crosscountry skiers, and much to my surprise, stayed ahead of them. The paths through the trees were a lot more sheltered and mostly rideable through a few inches of soft powder.

The way is definitely blocked.

As we’d noted setting off, the return track was completely blocked. We created an alternative route pushing through the visitor garden, back to the Harlaw carpark. We’d made it! Returning home via freshly ploughed roads, I arrived exhausted, a mere 6 hours and 6 minutes after setting off.

What an experience!
(but maybe never again)

Top of Maidens Cleugh, feeling like a hero (and an idiot)



Monday, 19 February 2018

Winter Traverse 2018

The avalanche forecast was high, the weather looked ‘mixed’, it must be time for the annual winter traverse!
Stob a'Choire Odhair summit, (guess who has new waterproof trousers on!)


The full route, an ambitious 7 munro circuit. Never really a likely possibility, but y’know it’s good to have goals.

Original (ambitious) route Plan

Arriving at real food café as the doors opened we had a cheeky breakfast stop before heading to Bridge of Orchy station to meet the rest of the group off the sleeper train.

Beginning the ascent

Having collected team sleeper train, we headed up to the valley to begin the ascent of Stob a'Choire Odhair. Quickly we reached snow line, and easy steps turned into wading through snow, with the occasional comedy fall into a hidden hole.


Heading down into the col, the snow turned to ice pack. At least I wasn’t carrying my crampons for nothing! Fully winter kitted up, we continued our descent.

The original plan was to head along the Aonach Eagach ridge (not that Aonach Eagach!), this being likely to be corniced we changed our route. After much discussion half the group headed down a different way and the rest of us continued for the summit, with plans to join the groups again at camp.

Final climb of Stob Ghabhar

Choosing to contour around, we headed up onto a different ridge, it was alarmingly steep in places, but the snowpack was stable. The ascent was more of a game of mind over matter to make our way to the summit of Stob Ghabhar. The clouds came and went on the summit showing a tiny crack on a cornice near the summit. Staying away from the edge on the ascent was definitely a good call!

Summit selfie on Stob Ghabhar
Coming off the top we made our way along the boundary and into the col where we’d thought about setting up camp. A conspicuous lack of running water and rest of the group meant we needed to head further into the valley.

Descending, we were practically swimming through the snow in places. It was pretty was exhausting, and a bit of a race against sunset (especially as muggins forgot to pack her head torch). Just before nightfall, we found the second half of the group, camped where the stream emerged from the snowline.

Tents were pitched in the dark and it quickly began to rain. I scoffed my pot noodle (top hill food!) and hit the sack.

I fell asleep to the sound of a game of ‘top munro’ being politicised in the background. Tony Braeriach and Jeremy Corbett haunted my dreams.

Sunrise, not raining!
We woke up to glorious weather (as in not raining), and set off, but not before a lengthy game of king/queen of faff.

The plan was to contour round to the next valley dump bags and ascend Meall nan Eun. As it turned out the climb to summit was rather steep. After a quick Ice Axe 101 lesson, we began to ascend.

Views from the contouring
As we climbed chunks of snow started to fall from our footsteps, a few of these started to gain a bit of size. I began to feel a bit (a lot) out of my depth. With 300 m still to climb and feeling a bit nervous about the descent we decided it was time to make a sensible decision and abort the mission.

The actual route 
We had some top sledging action on the descent, (there may have been squealing), and we made our way to the valley floor intact.

Once off the slope we started to relax, I managed to show off my lack of throwing ability in the ensuing snowball fight. Other people with better aim showed off how it should be done, I took two direct hits to the head.

We then marched down the valley to get back to the cars asap, looking forward to café at the end. Perhaps the sketchiest part of the whole day was the crossing around the stream and border fence. Involving a climb around a loose peat cliff above a deep part of the river.

Sketchiest part of the whole day? (Photo: Jim)
Eventually we made it back to the cars and headed back to real food café to round out the trip before going our separate ways.

Winter traverse: Never a disappointing weekend! Great to catch up with everyone 😊
Now to hang up the mountain of wet kit…