Ladies go packrafting

I’ve been curious to try packrafting for a few months now. I like the idea of being able to walk in to remote places and join up all the blue bits on the map. So, when Caroline pointed me in the direction of Annie’s packraft meet up, I said Yes! 

On a surprisingly bright morning in late September we arrived at Andy’s Backcountry Scot store in Aviemore.  The packraft and paddle probably added about 3kg to my hiking bag, not bad considering my whitewater kayak weights 22kg on its own.

Inflation Time

Fully kitted out, we walked out of Aviemore and up to Loch an Eliein. Time to packraft.  While it was a glorious sunny day it was also rather blowy. I was mindful of Annie’s advice not to let my raft blow away, unfortunately I was so busy holding down my packraft that my buoyancy aid flew away. Some kind SUPers reunited me with it. With all my stuff pinned down against the wind, I began inflating the raft. The process of using a giant dry back to inflate it took a bit of getting used to, but with improved technique relatively efficient.

Ready to go!

We paddled out around the island and over to the other side of the loch. The boat was much more manoeuvrable than I’d expected, going at a reasonable speed even against the wind. My packraft didn’t have a proper spraydeck, but the coverthing kept the splashes out and stayed pretty dry inside the boat.

Around the island

 Getting out of Loch an Eilein we walked the short distance over to Loch Gamhna. It’s too short a walk to be worth packing down the raft, so we carried them. With all the kit in the boat it was impossible to balance it on my shoulder, so Annie and I doubled up. Bec and Caroline, in slightly different models of packrafts simply unhooked their backpacks making it much easier to carry. I think next time, I’d try balancing the backrest on my forehead and shoulders.

Over on Loch Gamnha the wind had picked up further and it was tough work to make progress. We soon made a pit stop for lunch. I realised I had foolishly left my lunch inside my inflated packraft. Oops. After a quick deflate-reflate I was munching on oatcakes and cheese with everyone else in the sunshine. Whilst searching for my food bad I discovered I had suffered a porridge explosion. Fortunately however, the porridge exploded into a plastic bag and not into the packraft or I’d still be in there cleaning it.

Pushing on through the wind we attempted to find the least boggy part of the bank to disembark. With at least semi dry feet, I deflated my packraft disassembled my paddle and tried to remember how it had all fitted on to my backpack. We walked a few miles more through the wood emerging at the main road and a sign pointing towards cake. Cake!

Let there be Cake!

Having devoured a lovely piece of White Lady cake, and earl grey tea, we headed next door to ourcampground. As it turned out the estate we also hosting a wild swimming meet up and a gin launch (!).  We quickly set up camp and wandered back up to the bar, and stage area. I think we looked quite normal in thermals and leggings, compared to the wild swimmers in their Bat cape-like dry robes. Caroline and I shared a cheeky half pizza to supplement our dinners, while Bec located a missing pair of paddles belonging to the hire shop. Returning to camp we cooked our meals (I can confirm, Decathlon’s Apotona dehydrated meals are quite edible), and tried out the composting toilet (better than the portaloos) before turning in for the night.

The next morning we woke up to dry tents but a cloudy sky. After a leisurely breakfast consisting of the remains of my porridge and insta coffee, we packed down while the clouds grew darker. Venturing down to the river Spey, we found it at a decent flow from last weeks rain. This time I felt I knew what I was doing inflating the packraft, and pretty soon we were inflated and ready to go.

Setting off on the Spey

Just as we put on the river it started to rain, and continued intermittently throughout the rest of the day. Continuing down river I instructed the rest of the group in the correct technique for holding a paddle, so that it doesn’t block your face in a photograph. This is possibly the most important thing I’ve learned in all my years boating. On moving water the packrafts are still relatively agile, it is possible to ferry glide catch eddies; I even tried (and failed) to surf a mini-wave.

A short paddle later we found ourselves in Aviemore and after a speedy packdown in the rain, we commenced the short walk back to the Backcounty Scot shop. With boats returned and a quick change we headed down the road for another cake stop in Route 7 café, before hitting the road.

Big thanks to Annie for organising the weekend and Andy Toop for sorting us out with hire packrafts at a bargain price. I had a super time, hope to head out on another packraft adventure soon!

Crap Weather and Car Calamity

Sunday and Monday had appalling forecasts. Phrases like: heavy persistent rain, walking conditions arduous and gusts of 50 mph, might suggest sensible people stay indoors. However we are not sensible people. Instead we looked at the map with two questions ‘what’s the easiest/quickest mountains we can get up in poor weather’ and ‘are they close to a tea room’….

The answer is Meall Buidhe followed by Stuchd an Lochain.

Meall Buidhe, raining at the start

Sunday’s trip up Meall Buidhe was largely uneventful, it was raining at the start, it rained at the top and it rain all the way down. The return along the ridge was particularly brutal, the wind whipping rain into our faces. The walk was certainly quick, up and down in 2hours 32 minutes we outperformed the 3-4 hour quoted by the guidebook. After a quick change we retreated to the tearoom for hot chocolates all round!

Ashley and Phil, questioning their life choices

False summits on Meall Buidhe

Monday was supposed to a repeat performance, same glen but attempting Stuchd an Lochain on the other side of the valley. It’s a lonely road to the top of Glen Lyon and about 500m from the very top of the road, all the warning lights came on in the car. It seemed I’d lost all power and the car just managed to keep juddering forward.

Since we were at the start of the walk anyway, we decided just to head up the hill and bag the summit (again I’m not sure if that’s a sensible person move). The thought of a broken car did slightly taint the walk for me, so not many pictures from Monday. In any case while less rainy than the day before it was rather windy.

Stuchd an Lochain, hoping it might all be OK

Returning to the car I was optimistic that it might have magically fixed itself while we were walking. I was wrong. After a few meters it was clear there was something really wrong. Since there is no mobile reception in Glen Lyon, we limped back down the valley. Poor Phil was subjected to me wailing ‘WHY DOES THIS HAPPEN TO ME?’ all the way. We returned to the Bridge of Balgie cafe, to beg for use of landline to call for help.

Unfortunately I’d naively assumed this car wouldn’t breakdown so didn’t have cover. I Joined the RAC by the roadside for only a mildly extortionate cost, and began waiting for help to arrive. Soon I was cruelly abandoned by Ashley, Phil and Ivanka, some rubbish about needing to catch flights, poor excuse if you ask me…

Loading up in Bridge of Balgie

Three hours later the RAC came to the rescue in the form of a mechanic from the Lix Toll garage, who after a quick look decided to put the Volvo on the flatbed and drive me back to Lix Toll for diagnostics. The pass around Ben Lawers is really quite scenic from the tow truck and the sun was just peeking out but I was in no mood to enjoy the view.

Lix Toll rescue service

At Lix Toll garage the issue was found to be the fuel injection system. Not fixable quickly. The RAC only tow 50 miles for new members, so the car got towed on to the Volvo garage in Stirling, and I was left to make my own way home form there. Another car bites the dust.

I think I may be cursed.

Train adventures in Corrour

Corrour!

Staying in Killin, with Ashley, Phill and Ivanka, the weather had been decidedly autumnal for the first few days. However on Friday night MWIS predicted a break in the weather. Time to hatch a plan!

Since I first heard about it, I’ve been curious to explore Corrour. As the UK’s most remote train station (there are no roads in), it holds the promise of a proper wilderness adventure with the added bonus of being the starting point for a couple of Munros.

Train times checked, an early morning start saw us driving to Bridge of Orchy. The sun peeking through the clouds suggesting the weather might just be as good as forecast.

Early morning views just out of Tyndrum

We arrived at Bridge of Orchy station, in plenty of time to faff about before jumping on the sleeper train. Slightly bemused passengers, just waking up made room for us in the seating compartment while we tucked into Scotrail coffee and biscuits.

Train Adventures!

Two stops later we hopped of at Corrour station just one other couple behind us. The sun was coming out and it was shaping up to be a great day for hill bagging.

Corrour Station train pulling away

First stop was passing Corrour Youth Hostel hidden in the trees at the shoes of Loch Ossian. The now eco hostel used to the old waiting room for Victorian gentry being ferried to the lodge at the other end of the loch.

Loch Ossian Youth Hostel hiding in the trees

The first peak we bagged was Carn Dearg, I’m pretty sure we missed the path to the Summit (Phil claims it doesn’t exist). Nonetheless after an arduous wade through tussocky heather we crested the top to grab a victory pic for the collection.

Carn Dearg summit

After fairly easy traverse we ascended Sgor Gabhrie, making excellent time. We also got our first glimpse of the other couple we’d seen at the station, they we’re making the circuit in the opposite direction (we had been worried they we just that much faster than us). Comparing notes we were warned of paddy field conditions on the decent from Sgor Choinnich. They weren’t wrong.

Sgor Gabhrie summit, also featuring Ivanka's thumb ;-)

Squelchy wet feet notwithstanding, we successfully made our way down to the shoes of Loch. The £20 million mansion at the head of the loch was well hidden in the trees. We were disappointed not to get a good nosey at it; apparently it looks like a James bond villain lair! 

Views down Loch Ossian

As well as the 'James Bond Lair' there is also a small collection of cottages at the head of the loch. The isolation, and the way the cottages are half hidden in the trees gives the place a creepy air! With the midges setting, we didn't stop to explore. Tramping down the edge of the loch we made good time back to station, arriving in plenty of time to grab drinks and snacks at the station café before the return train pulled in.

Removing shoes before cafe time

On the whole Corrour was just as wild and expansive as I’d imagined, however the hydro tracks that criss-cross the valleys slightly takes away from the sense of remoteness to the place.

Panorama fun on Sgor Choinnich

Alps 2017: Doing it in Style

Nothing like a nice relaxed trip to the alps. After many years if slumming it around the campsites of Europe, this year time to do it in style!

We set off driving south through the typical traffic jams of southern England, we arrived in Dover just in time for Tamsin to be attacked by a seagull waiting for the ferry. We set off for our B&B in Calais, waking up refreshed for trucking through the pouring rain of northern France.

Motoring on through the rain Photo: Nicola Crangle

Fortunately, as we climbed the pass out of Italy into Montgenevre, the sun came out and there it stayed for the rest of the glorious week. This is exactly why I love the French Alps! As we truned into the village of Les Alberts, we got our first views of our accomdation for the week. I could not have been more impressed, we were staying in a Palace!

Our Palace for the week Photo: Steve Martin

Somehow I managed to blag the Master bedroom, with a bathroom that was bigger than my lounge at home. And a view from the roll top bath that took in the CLaree valley I knew we were in for a top week.

Levels were not particularly high, but most of the classics were still going. On the first day we even caught up with some familiar ICCC faces on the first day of summer tour. We paddled all the usual runs from the sunshine run to the lower Guisane (no black eyes this year). I made everyone go to the Briancon gorge after the one night it rained, unfortunaltey there wasn’t really enough water but it was very scenic anyway!

Briancon gorge Low but awesome Photo: Steve Gibson

Towards the end of the week we went over to the Guil valley to paddle all the best sections. I wussed out of Chateaux Q again. Gotta leave something for next time. I took one cheeky swim on the Staricase rapid, but otherwise a good run.

Romanche (I think), Photo: Steve Gibson

On the last day, we headed over to the Romanche, I’ve never actually got all the way to the bottom of this section. I was pretty pleased with myself getting all the way to the end, with only one roll on the crux rapid. We stopped on an high Alpine meadow on the way back over before a final blast down the lower Guisane.

High Alpine Lunch, photo: Steve Martin 

Great relaxed week paddling some classics thanks Steve and Tamsin for organising!

Knoydart

“We should totally explore Knoydart”, 

“yes! And climb the Munros on the peninsula”

This is a conversation I had with Alex about 4 years ago. 

For one reason or another it never actually happened…. Until one extended weekend in May, a fortuitous combination of leave and good weather meant it was finally time to dust off the plans off and set off for one of the remotest parts of mainland UK.

Route planning

Arriving in Mallaig the Sun was out, with the promise of a glorious afternoon. I located Alex in just enough time to grab some extra lunch form the coop before jumping on the ferry to Inverie. It was a smooth crossing, and the cross emerging from the sea in middle of the inlet, slightly less foreboding in the calm weather.

Ferry crossing to Inverie

Jumping off the ferry, we headed out of Inverie towards the hills. The 'take care' notice on the edge of the village definitely lets you know you are leaving civilisation behind!      

Feeling adequately experienced and properly equipped we left Inverie. Time to explore mountain country. Leaving the village we ended up wading through a rather ominous deer graveyard. Still nothing could dampen my spirits as we began to climb. The views back down to the bay just got better and better.

The first ridge of the route doesn’t contain any Munros, so it perhaps doesn’t see as many visitors as other parts of Knoydart. It was well worth it though as the view were spectacular, and give a feel for the expanse wilderness. At this point Alex made a rather foolish bet that we wouldn’t see any other people during our venture, the loser would buy the hotchocolates on our return to Inverie.

Panorama fun on the first ridge

The decent off of the ridge was a little sketchy in places and not as fast as we’d expected. So we didn’t bag any Munros that day.  We settled on camping near the top of the Belach, meaning we’d have a short ascent the next day to take us up to Meall Buidhe.

Possibly the best camp spot ever.

This turned into one of those wild camp spots that I thought only exist in the imagination. Sunny enough to sit outside, just enough wind to keep the midges off and sweeping views down the valley. Just about bedtime the sunset put a splash of colour cross the sky. Marvellous.

Sunset from the tent

The next morning after a leisurely breakfast we set off up to bag the first of three Munros for the day. Throughout the day we came across 3 other groups of people, all in all I counted 6 hot chocolates owed. Win.

Meall Bhuidhe

  With views of the rest of the mountain to come we could see the ridges that flank the edge of Ladhar Bhienn, which would be our final mountain. Sadly, we could also see the rain clouds coming in and feel the first few spots of rain.

Lunnie Bhienn

By the time we got to the summit of Ladhar Bhienn the weather had truly set in. Soaked to the skin, we reluctantly concluded not to head up onto the final ridge, but head down the quickest route back to Inverie. I would definitely want to come back and do the ridge scramble one day, it looked amazing!

Fortunatley the slope didn’t feel quite as steep as the map indicated and after a stomp through the rain we found ourselves outside the pub in Inverie. Unfortunately, the pub, it seems has changed ownership, and was a slightly disappointing end after the two days of epicness.

I am have a Great Time, soaked through on Ladhar Bhienn

My Winnings!

Leaving the pub we set off to make camp. The rain, was back to mizzle levels and the wind had dropped away to nothing. Meaning the campsite next to the sea shore was a breeding ground for midges. In fact it seemed to be the night of the living midges. Never have I been so bitten.

The next morning with the rain coming down we settled into the café to enjoy the first of my bet winning hot chocolates! After a short walk up the valley to find the water source for Inverie, it was time to head back down to the harbour to catch the ferry and shoot off home. I spent the rest of the week at work staring out the window wishing I was still there (and scratching at my midge bites).

Leaving Knoydart, I'm sure I'll be back.

Knoydart, ‘the last wilderness in the UK’, it certainly lived up to it’s long awaited promise of adventure. 

Skye fun

After an exhausting time on Torridon, we made our way over to Skye, a ‘rest day’ was on the card for most. I’m not sure if climbing a hill really counts as rest, but it was a change from biking.

Top of (Photo Rhian Anthony)

The next day we set off for the infamous Sligachan, both me and my bike were feeling a little broken by this point. But with views of the Cuillin peak and intermittent sunshine, was enough to convince me this was a good idea.

Scenic Skye riding (Photo Caroline Souter)

The path had been recently re-done and numerous drainage ditches put in place. I definitely got better at hopping over them throughout the day. Several river/stream crossing provided amusment to see who could would get through, who would get wet feet and who would just use the stepping stones and walk.

Dicing with a river crossing (Photo Caroline Souter)

Unfortunately my front suspension started to pack in, and as we rounded the top of the pass, it pretty much died altogether! Feeling pretty broken I didn’t quite make it to the bothy, turned around early and headed back to the car. Inspite of not quite completing the ride I was fairly pleased that both me and the bike had made it as far as we did!

GPS trace of shame (didn't quite make the Bothy)

 On the way back home we stopped at the Nevis range for a quick spin round the train centre there. Since the Anthem was basically unrideable, I went to hire a bike. I was more than a little tempted by an electric bike, but the lure of trying fatbike won out. Super silly fun, I’d love to own one!

Fat Bike Mega Fun (Photo Tamsin Saxton)

Returning to Edinburgh totally broken, but big grins all round after a super few days of exploring the highland by mtb. I want to go back already!