Alps 2017: Doing it in Style

Nothing like a nice relaxed trip to the alps. After many years if slumming it around the campsites of Europe, this year time to do it in style!

We set off driving south through the typical traffic jams of southern England, we arrived in Dover just in time for Tamsin to be attacked by a seagull waiting for the ferry. We set off for our B&B in Calais, waking up refreshed for trucking through the pouring rain of northern France.

Motoring on through the rain Photo: Nicola Crangle

Fortunately, as we climbed the pass out of Italy into Montgenevre, the sun came out and there it stayed for the rest of the glorious week. This is exactly why I love the French Alps! As we truned into the village of Les Alberts, we got our first views of our accomdation for the week. I could not have been more impressed, we were staying in a Palace!

Our Palace for the week Photo: Steve Martin

Somehow I managed to blag the Master bedroom, with a bathroom that was bigger than my lounge at home. And a view from the roll top bath that took in the CLaree valley I knew we were in for a top week.

Levels were not particularly high, but most of the classics were still going. On the first day we even caught up with some familiar ICCC faces on the first day of summer tour. We paddled all the usual runs from the sunshine run to the lower Guisane (no black eyes this year). I made everyone go to the Briancon gorge after the one night it rained, unfortunaltey there wasn’t really enough water but it was very scenic anyway!

Briancon gorge Low but awesome Photo: Steve Gibson

Towards the end of the week we went over to the Guil valley to paddle all the best sections. I wussed out of Chateaux Q again. Gotta leave something for next time. I took one cheeky swim on the Staricase rapid, but otherwise a good run.

Romanche (I think), Photo: Steve Gibson

On the last day, we headed over to the Romanche, I’ve never actually got all the way to the bottom of this section. I was pretty pleased with myself getting all the way to the end, with only one roll on the crux rapid. We stopped on an high Alpine meadow on the way back over before a final blast down the lower Guisane.

High Alpine Lunch, photo: Steve Martin 

Great relaxed week paddling some classics thanks Steve and Tamsin for organising!

Knoydart

“We should totally explore Knoydart”, 

“yes! And climb the Munros on the peninsula”

This is a conversation I had with Alex about 4 years ago. 

For one reason or another it never actually happened…. Until one extended weekend in May, a fortuitous combination of leave and good weather meant it was finally time to dust off the plans off and set off for one of the remotest parts of mainland UK.

Route planning

Arriving in Mallaig the Sun was out, with the promise of a glorious afternoon. I located Alex in just enough time to grab some extra lunch form the coop before jumping on the ferry to Inverie. It was a smooth crossing, and the cross emerging from the sea in middle of the inlet, slightly less foreboding in the calm weather.

Ferry crossing to Inverie

Jumping off the ferry, we headed out of Inverie towards the hills. The 'take care' notice on the edge of the village definitely lets you know you are leaving civilisation behind!      

Feeling adequately experienced and properly equipped we left Inverie. Time to explore mountain country. Leaving the village we ended up wading through a rather ominous deer graveyard. Still nothing could dampen my spirits as we began to climb. The views back down to the bay just got better and better.

The first ridge of the route doesn’t contain any Munros, so it perhaps doesn’t see as many visitors as other parts of Knoydart. It was well worth it though as the view were spectacular, and give a feel for the expanse wilderness. At this point Alex made a rather foolish bet that we wouldn’t see any other people during our venture, the loser would buy the hotchocolates on our return to Inverie.

Panorama fun on the first ridge

The decent off of the ridge was a little sketchy in places and not as fast as we’d expected. So we didn’t bag any Munros that day.  We settled on camping near the top of the Belach, meaning we’d have a short ascent the next day to take us up to Meall Buidhe.

Possibly the best camp spot ever.

This turned into one of those wild camp spots that I thought only exist in the imagination. Sunny enough to sit outside, just enough wind to keep the midges off and sweeping views down the valley. Just about bedtime the sunset put a splash of colour cross the sky. Marvellous.

Sunset from the tent

The next morning after a leisurely breakfast we set off up to bag the first of three Munros for the day. Throughout the day we came across 3 other groups of people, all in all I counted 6 hot chocolates owed. Win.

Meall Bhuidhe

  With views of the rest of the mountain to come we could see the ridges that flank the edge of Ladhar Bhienn, which would be our final mountain. Sadly, we could also see the rain clouds coming in and feel the first few spots of rain.

Lunnie Bhienn

By the time we got to the summit of Ladhar Bhienn the weather had truly set in. Soaked to the skin, we reluctantly concluded not to head up onto the final ridge, but head down the quickest route back to Inverie. I would definitely want to come back and do the ridge scramble one day, it looked amazing!

Fortunatley the slope didn’t feel quite as steep as the map indicated and after a stomp through the rain we found ourselves outside the pub in Inverie. Unfortunately, the pub, it seems has changed ownership, and was a slightly disappointing end after the two days of epicness.

I am have a Great Time, soaked through on Ladhar Bhienn

My Winnings!

Leaving the pub we set off to make camp. The rain, was back to mizzle levels and the wind had dropped away to nothing. Meaning the campsite next to the sea shore was a breeding ground for midges. In fact it seemed to be the night of the living midges. Never have I been so bitten.

The next morning with the rain coming down we settled into the café to enjoy the first of my bet winning hot chocolates! After a short walk up the valley to find the water source for Inverie, it was time to head back down to the harbour to catch the ferry and shoot off home. I spent the rest of the week at work staring out the window wishing I was still there (and scratching at my midge bites).

Leaving Knoydart, I'm sure I'll be back.

Knoydart, ‘the last wilderness in the UK’, it certainly lived up to it’s long awaited promise of adventure. 

Skye fun

After an exhausting time on Torridon, we made our way over to Skye, a ‘rest day’ was on the card for most. I’m not sure if climbing a hill really counts as rest, but it was a change from biking.

Top of (Photo Rhian Anthony)

The next day we set off for the infamous Sligachan, both me and my bike were feeling a little broken by this point. But with views of the Cuillin peak and intermittent sunshine, was enough to convince me this was a good idea.

Scenic Skye riding (Photo Caroline Souter)

The path had been recently re-done and numerous drainage ditches put in place. I definitely got better at hopping over them throughout the day. Several river/stream crossing provided amusment to see who could would get through, who would get wet feet and who would just use the stepping stones and walk.

Dicing with a river crossing (Photo Caroline Souter)

Unfortunately my front suspension started to pack in, and as we rounded the top of the pass, it pretty much died altogether! Feeling pretty broken I didn’t quite make it to the bothy, turned around early and headed back to the car. Inspite of not quite completing the ride I was fairly pleased that both me and the bike had made it as far as we did!

GPS trace of shame (didn't quite make the Bothy)

 On the way back home we stopped at the Nevis range for a quick spin round the train centre there. Since the Anthem was basically unrideable, I went to hire a bike. I was more than a little tempted by an electric bike, but the lure of trying fatbike won out. Super silly fun, I’d love to own one!

Fat Bike Mega Fun (Photo Tamsin Saxton)

Returning to Edinburgh totally broken, but big grins all round after a super few days of exploring the highland by mtb. I want to go back already!

Torridon Tour

Still being quite new to mountain biking, when Alex decide to organise a jaunt to Torridon and Skye, I just said yes. I had no idea what I was letting myself in for! On the first day we went for a loop from Gairloch to Loch Maree and back. It was a tough but fun introduction to mtb in the highlands,  and the challenge was only just beginning.

top of the pass on day 1 (Photo Rhian Anthony)

The absolute highlight of the trip was the tour of Torridon ride, over the pass to the Strathcarron road and back.

The Torridon loop (OK we shuttled the final bit on the road)

Unfortunately at the top of the first climb the bolt on my seat post sheared in half, and my saddle fell off! An improv fix with cable ties was initiated, this held the saddle on but didn’t fix it in place. Still who needs to sit for a descent anyway.

one of many attempts at affixing saddle to bike (Photo: Rhian Anthony) 

Back down at the road we discovered road signs are held on with the same sized bolt as a saddle post. Unfortunately, they are not quite long enough to hit the screw. We returned the bolt to the road sign, bodged the saddle back on with cable ties and carried on.

Stealing a bolt from a signpost: Harder than you might imagine.
We did put it back though! (photo Rhian Anthony)

Later we passed some workmen building a hydro scheme, and begged the for a bolt. We tried using thinner on they offered us, but it soon bent, and I was back to a wobbly saddle. I decided to chalk this up to ‘good training’, and stood up on the peddles for most of the rest of the ride. From this episode I learnt two things:

1. Having a saddle with a hole in makes impromptu repairs much easier to see what you’re doing
2. Cable ties are an essential part of emergency repair kit.

We soon left the road again and began the long climb up to the belach. Passing the bothy at Coire Fionnaraich, I thought the climb might be nearly over. I was so wrong, It had only just begun! The path got steeper and rockier, the mountains beyond rising in a horse shoe, with no visible path between them.

The never ending hike-a-bike (photo Caroline Souter)

After an unending seeming bit of hike bike we reached the top of the pass, for an epic descent, back down in to Torridon. Then back to the hostel to tuck into victory cake provided by Sven!

The amazing cake! (Photo Sven Thompson)

Next stop Skye for more awesome biking!

New year in the Highlands

 New year in the highlands is always brilliant, this year was no different.

It’s the 2^nd of January, there’s 7 hours of daylight. What could be more sensible than planning a 12 hour traverse. Walking highlands suggests “The traverse of the Grey Corries main ridge gives a long and demanding but superb mountain walk” and that’s for summer conditions. It was definitely not summer outside.

Stob Coire Claurigh

Stob Coire an Laoigh

Not deterred we shuttled cars the night before and well before the crack of dawn found ourselves stomping up Glen Nevis. It was a long way to get on to the ridge but once up there we soon started ticking off summits and tops.

Rather Windy, Sgurr Choinnich Mor

 It was a little windy in places, but not too bitingly cold (so long as you kept moving). I wasn’t entirely sure about going for all four peaks and though about heading down after three. However a break in the cloud meant I could see the final summit, it didn’t look so very far after all. Getting up the final summit was tricky though a faintly discernible path up a scree slope.  I was starting to feel tired once we were at the summit and we still had to descend the same horrid scree slope.

Feeling like Heros on the top of Stob Ban

By the time we hit the valley floor, twilight had passed. After popping into the bothy for a wee break, we struck out down the track to find the shuttle cars. A hard day but well worth it for the fours summits bagged.

Top of the road

New years day I decided would be a good day to begin my Etape cycle training. So I set out chasing Ashely up Glen Etive. It turned out to be hard work, the return journey back down the valley, I found myself clinging to the brakes not wanting to pick up too much speed on an occasionally uneven road. what a way to bring in the new year.

First sunset of the New Year

Counting swims on the Blackwater

It’s definitely winter season in Scotland now and this means trips have to start earlier to maximize daylight. So an 8:30 meet-up (the horror!) was on the cards for Sunday paddling. I managed to arrive late having maximised my last few minutes in bed, Oops.

We were off to paddle the Blackwater which has been on my list to tick off for some time. Further signs of winter were sighted on the drive up with frost on the ground and low lying mist clinging to the fields....

 On the plus side the sun was shining and I have a new leopard-print onesie to keep me toasty!

The Blackwater starts with a bang, a 4 tiered grade IV drop at the putin. My assessment was that the first drop was the hardest, so much time was spent inspecting this with less attention paid to the other drops. Possibly this was my downfall.

Stevie and Gregor led the charge, with varying degrees of style.  

Stevie hits number 4

After switching up safety, I paddled down the first drop, slightly missing the line and having a small moment with the rock, and eddied out to wait for the next people down. the next thing I saw was Mags floating past me  upsidedown. Fortunately however, Mags rolls like a trooper and survived the rapid still in her boat. 

Mags on the way back up

Gianni followed and then Kevin popped into my eddy, so I decided to paddle on down the rest of the rapid. Drops 2 and 3 were pretty much as expected. The final drop did not go exactly to plan, I managed to push the ‘anti-boof’ button and ended up backlooped into the hole. A slightly embarrassing swim but at least the only thing wounded was my pride.

surprise backloop for me

Kevin followed down behind and missed the line on the final drop, unfortunately dislocating his shoulder on the way. Swimmer and boat were successfully rescued and Kevin managed to pop his shoulder back into place by the side of the river. Hospital visit successfully avoided, but unable to carry on, Kevin joined up with Hieu who had also decided not to paddle. L

Kevin styles the top drop

Alec brought up the rear and the rest of us joined up with Christina and headed off downstream. Some fun rapids lead us into the gorge section , all was going smoothly. I decided to walk the big rapid in the gorge -  some days you just don’t feel it. Gregor lined up first, styled the rapid and then swam in the pool in the bottom, doh! Fortunately there was another group just downstream to do some chase boating.

Gregor, just before it all goes a bit wrong

Gianni on the gorge

The rest of the gorge was nice read and run rapids with Gianni and Stevie adding one a piece to the swim count. About halfway down the gorge we found Gregor re-united with his boat and headed on down the rest of the run. Other than a surprise backwards rapid for me it was pretty much plain sailing down to final bridge, before heading to the pub for beer and hot chocolate. 

Out of the 9 of us on the trip on Alec and Christina had a head dry day on the water (clearly they weren’t trying hard enough!)

Luss Water with Low Water

Aka the lies of wheresthewater.com

Five intrepid boaters met in the overcast South Queensferry Tesco with a plan to go paddle something or other. The decision was taken to head up to the Luss Water, the wheresthewater gauge was saying the river was high and should be good to go.

Not really knowing much about the Luss I said ‘ok cool’ and jumped in the car, casually flicking through the guide book to find out what we’re in for: grade 4 some 4+  “a serious undertaking at very high flows” was pretty much all I read before closing the guidebook and pretending I hadn’t seen it.

Five boat one car shuttle

As it turned out I needn’t have worried, when we arrived at the putin it was pretty clear flow were not exactly high, definitely enough to float but not enough worry about. We all jumped into Laura’s car for  a cheeky 5-boats-on-one-car shuttle, up to the putin. Usually the Mollochan Burn is slid down in to the Luss however it was looking little low for that so we trekked down to the confluence, I was wishing I’d put on less thermals.

At the low levels it was a bit of a pin fest in places and I was perfecting the ‘spin on a rock and go down backwards’ line. We got out to inspect the hardest rapid on the run, a chute into a rooster tail with a curtain pushing you into a boily wall just above a second drop.  I bravely let everyone else go first.

Some took better lines that others, Derek and Alan both rolling over the lip second drop, looked particularly nasty.  I managed the rapid head dry but with a slightly swollen thumb from punching the wall (no pictures of me = I can pretend I styled it ;-)

(If anyone wants them the full sequence of photos can be found here)

 

Various lines, clockwise from top: Laura skirts under the curtain, Steve makes it look a bit too easy, Alan being pushed over by the curtain, Derek upsidedown on the lip

After some more interesting drops we arrived at Luss falls; a tree filled undercut gorge. We all portaged. Steve and Alan paddled on to probe the next drop, I’m not sure exactly what happened, other than from the top all we could see was a river left bush waving wildly around. Steve the appeared on the bank with Alan’s paddles signalling to go right.

Nasty looking strainer on the gorge

We carried on through the short gorge before the river opened up into a weir followed shortly after we saw the road bridge signalling the end of the section. The Luss Water is a lovely scenic run, definitely keen to come back, but maybe with a little more water next time!

Funtimes on Luss Water