Wandering off in Oman - Riiik and Rach go adventuring

Riding through cracks in the landscape 
Bikepacking in Oman

One idle Wednesday a message popped into my inbox: “dude wanna come biking in Oman?”

It was December in Scotland and I was cold... Oman, however, probably not cold.  A quick glance at the route was all I needed to say ‘Lets do it’! I mean adventures with Rik have always ended with good stories.

The route: Nizwa to Muscat through the Jebal Shams mountains (with many options and side missions)

Naturally some wandering off happened. In fact before we even left Muscat airport while I was guarding the stuff, I got this message:

...somethings never change.

Once I'd tracked down Rik, we got a bus out to Nizwa, which turned out to be much easier than expected. In Niswa we were unceremoniously dropped on in a back alley in town and a good 5km from our hotel. This seemed as good a time as any to construct the bikes. 

Assembly time 
The back alley where we put the bikes back together

Happily after a few stressful moments all the pieces fitted together and we set off to find our hotel for the night.

All the pieces went back together Phew!

In the evening we explored the historic centre of Nizwa. As with most of the rest of the trip the absence of crowds of tourists was notable. We saw a handful of tourists and made our way on to a coffee house for dinner

Nizwa souq - I really want one of those giant pots!

We set off early the next morning intending to cover some miles before it got really hot, however after a very short ride we made an early juice stop – We were on holiday after all!

Riding through Nizwa Fort

How soon is too soon before we can stop for juice? 
(3km in to the ride-totally appropriate)

The major roads in Oman are nice smooth tarmac, and with some chunky mountain passes, it’s not surprising the Haute Route goes through this region. And on day 1 we crossed into their route. Attempts to drop the roadies were discussed but never initiated – probably wise.

Ok, these signs weren’t actually put out for us. Still...

Often the road had a perfectly serviceable gravel road alongside it. I enjoyed being on a terrain more suited to my bike, which also turned out some ace photo opportunities.

Rik on Road by Rach on Gravel

We probably looked a little bit strange together. Rik on a folding bike with full touring gear and me on a plus wheels with a bikepacking set up. Surprisingly, most of the time we actually made a similar pace.

Cycle touring or Bikepacking ?
Two hilariously mismatched bikes

Pretty soon we reached a turn off for Wadi Tanuf, our 'side mission' for day 1, the tarmac turned to gravel and then river bed. I felt like I was finally riding the right bike for the terrain.

Wadi Tanuf - maximum gravel.

Rik showed off his skillz on 20" wheel in the gravel. I genuinely spent most of the trip amazed at what Rik can ride on tiny tiny wheels. (I'll keep my plus wheel thanks ;-)

Wadi Tanuf, Near the top of the 'road'

Then we rode back out the way we came and towards Al Hamra to camp for the night via a short detour to a government compound/tourist hotspot, where we got on a train (a train!) into massive cave complex. (No photos because the government people really didn't allow it). Quite the bizarre experience.

Sunset over Al Hamra - leaving Al Hoota 

We found a campsite in the dark, pitched the free standing tent ate and went to bed. in the night the wind picked up. First a bit and then a lot. In the end we had to move camp and re pitch attaching guy ropes to building blocks and a fence to prevent tents blowing away.

Tent tied to a fence and some breeze blocks!

The next day we began our 'big climb' up to 2000m, but not before stopping in to a village store for coffee and dates with the shopkeeper. Lovely. From our study of the map we weren't sure if there was any civilization on the mountain pass, so we carried 6kg of water each. It was heavy, and ultimately unnecessary. Still running out would have been worse.

Fully laden with 6kg of water.

Climbing up the pass was hot work, we intermittently cycle and pushed the bikes ever upwards. The road was very exposed and almost no cover for shade barring the occasional scrub tree.

Lunch at 1300m, (the height of Ben Nevis) 
Nowhere close to the top.

Somewhere around 1600m up we found a mosque. We sheltered on the shady wall for some respite. Before long we were invited in to the small house next door for coffee dates and fruit. yum.

Rik makes friends with the locals

Up and up we went. This was the only day I turned the garmin on, just to check our elevation to see if we were anywhere near the magic 2000m that would signal the top of the pass. Eventually after an almighty push we found ourselves riding on the plateau. Yes! We'd reached the top. Suddenly, by the side of the road - a guest house. Happy days. a shower was definitely called for. Camping plans were quickly abandoned as we hustled in for showers and beds.

Topping out at 2000m

After an extended breakfast in the guest house we rode on to find the bit I'd been waiting for... The end of the tarmac and miles upon miles of endless gravelly descent.

And now the fun begins, the end of the tarmac.

This day was almost entirely down hill, and crazy steep. We passed a few 4WD vehicles taking tourists to the top. I honestly don't know how they made it.

Let the downhill begin.

The scenery was mindblowing- sheer cliffs to the right and a very sharp drop to the left. This is not a place to come off the trail!

Riding on the edge of the plateau

Over the whole day we covered less than 20km. Partly because of the leisurely start but also because of the many stops for photos and letting the brakes cool off!

Tiny wheels on gravel

Dooooooown

After a couple of false starts we eventually found a camp spot for the night. One of the best wild camps ever - in a dry river bed surrounded by mountains on all sides. Going for a midnight wee, I was transfixed by the bowl of stars overhead. Magical.

Tents mountains and bikes
Days like these :-)

 Of course it also happened to be Pancake Day. We weren't going to let being away from civilization stop us....

All the necessary ingredients 

The next morning we went for a further explore in the canyon....

Exploring Snake Canyon - 
It went on like this for several kms

And then paid the price for our awesome camp spot with a long push out.

Pushing out of the canyon, 
sweaty but worth it

The rest of the day was more descending out of the mountains, less steep but still stunning, with epic side canyons to explore.

Onwards to Petra?

The track we're following (Wadi Bani Awf) cuts through the mountains, and every time corner we went round it looked there would be no way out except over the top. Then further on we'd find a tiny cut through between the peaks (no up and over -phew!)

Cut through mountains

At lunch time we found our first road sign in days, we were on our way out of this gravel section.

After the gravel ended we still had miles of canyon to ride through before getting to Rustaq. 

Off the gravel and back into a canyon, 
it went on like this for about 10 miles!

We stayed the night in the only hotel in Rustaq. looking at the route options for getting back to Muscat. We decided on the interesting route. Moar Gravel! This meant following the edge of the mountain range all the way.  basically so long as the mountains were on our right we would end up in Muscat.

Keeping the mountains on the right

Again the kindness of Omanis was hugely appreciated, searching out a rest stop a car pulled over and stopped. An Omani jumped out and rummaged in the back of the car and handed us a bag of fruit and delicious sweet goo (found out later this is called Halwa). 

Fruit and Goo,
The kindness of strangers

On some sections the gravel was bit thick for Rik's bike, so I got ahead. Which meant I could have a cheeky nap waiting for him to catch up (and Rik can take photos of me snoring)

Nap time!

Our final camp spot was another dry river bed, not quite as stunning as in the mountains, but still a great final night on the traverse.

Final camp- still using rocks to hold the tents down.

The final day we rode into Muscat, mostly on Tarmac. My knobbly tyres sounding like a small moped on the polished road. It was also a good day for photos with Camels!

Camel time!

As we got closer to Muscat, the roads got bigger and busier until we were basically riding on motorway.oops! Finally after getting a bit lost in the back roads of Muscat and navigating past the airport, we located our hotel and set about getting showers.

Anticlimactical finish photo

 Our time in Oman had come to an end, what a great trip. I can highly recommend Oman as a holiday destination, the people are friendly, the weather is good and the mountains are stunning. I'm pretty sure there is a lot more to explore in those mountains. I'd definitely go back.

Oman: Sunshine, mountains and bikes-
whats not to like!

Go Big and Go Home - Riding home for Christmas

It’s 7:30am, I’ve ridden less than a mile, and I’ve fallen off my bike. Sprawled across the A70, with rush hour just starting, I feel Very Silly. This is the tale of my ride home for Christmas.....

All set a ready to go, (about 15 mins before crashing)

Every year I ponder how I am going to get home for Christmas. It’s about 450miles from Edinburgh to Southampton. I’ve tried driving, flying, sleeper bus, train, and even Megabus (a definite low point).

I’ve often considered cycling, but never been confident I could actually make it. This year I'm still not confident but thought I’d set off anyway and see what happened. Being a month out from the Strathpuffer I figured this would be a good time to put in some long rides.

Waaa I'm setting off, (not my best look)

Day 1: Edinburgh to Carlisle

This is where I fall off, less than a mile from my front door. I’ve set off wearing my mtb helmet (it’s easier to fix a light to it) the visor obscures my vision a bit and I’ve got my head down focused on the ride ahead. I don’t see the parked car in front of my until it’s too late. I swerve too hard to avoid it and end up landing on my shoulder. A car coming in the other direction stops “are you OK?” he enquired. “Yes yes I’m fine, just an idiot” I reply.  He drives off and I wonder if I actually am ok...

I am so embarrassed. I’d told a lot of people about this ride, that I wasn’t sure if I’d make it, but that I was pretty confident I’d get to Carlisle. I can't bail after 1 mile! My shoulder is quite sore, especially if I need to make a hand signal. But then most of day 1 is on one road – no hand signals required! I (metaphorically) shrug my shoulders, suck it up and get on with riding. From here on I keep my head up for a good view of obstacles in the road ahead. Lesson learned!

A small window of blue sky! I definitely got lucky with the weather

I stop in Abington for a quick coffee stop, I’m making OK progress if I keep this up I might get to Carlisle before dark. In Gretna I stop by ‘the sign’ for the welcome to England photo. 

Arriving in England, and puncturing in the process :-(

Unfortunately whilst hauling my bike up to the sign I get a shard in my tyre and puncture. (is the universe trying to send me a message?). Puncture fixed I get on my way arriving at my Premier Inn accommodation for the night. It’s the last Friday before Christmas and the bar is full of noisy people celebrating finishing up work for the holidays. I find the quietest corner I can and eat double portions of dinner, before turning in early.

-side note Premier Inn has a bike friendly policy, so long as your bike is clean(ish) you can bring it into the room. No need to haul a chunky padlock around.

Day 2: Carlisle to Chorley

My knees are a bit sore from not having the bike set up quite right in the early part of the previous day’s ride. I think about taking a rest day and hopping on the train, but the forecast is nice for today and the ride through the lake district should be a highlight. I’ve a scab on my shoulder from falling off, it’s still a bit stiff making hand signal, but I’m riding on the A6 all day so hand signals still largely not required…

Coffee stop in Chapter 12 coffee Rooms

I set off promising myself a coffee stop in Penrith. It takes a longer to get to Penrith than I expected, still I find a gem of a café in the centre of town. I lean my bike up and shuffle in, the manager comes over asking if that’s my bike outside. He invites me to bring it inside ‘there’s plenty of space’. How nice! The food is yummy too, Chapter 12 coffee rooms in Penrith highly recommended!

All the best trips come with 'Danger' signs!

Then I set off over the Shap summit this will be the highest point on the ride. And there’s a helpful road sign to warn me it could be rather sketchy in winter. Luckily the weather is about as mild as it’s possible to be in December, so no ice worries today. I work my way over the pass, it’s a nice steady climb and I find a good rhythm. I get to the summit and reward myself with a summit pie, the views are probably wonderful, but it’s misty and starting to spit with rain so I ride on. A nice long decent takes me into Kendal. Then onwards for another premier inn in Chorley.

Shap summit: A cheeky pie and selfie in the drizzle

Day 3 Chorley to Kidderminster

The forecast is for rainrainrain, my knees are a bit stiff, and I’m not confident about today’s route(is that enough excuses?). It seems like a good day to take a short cut on the train. 

Northern Rail - best bike facilities I've seen
More trains like this please

On the upside though my shoulder is feel mostly better. I catch the train from Chorley to Stafford, where I re-join my route for 35 miles of back roads and mucky canal paths in the rain. I arrive in Kidderminster with a bike covered in mud. Fortunately there’s a garage with a pressure wash next to the Premier Inn, a rather surprised driver offers me the last 2 mins of her wash. I gratefully accept and rinse most of the mud off before checking in.

Day 4: Kidderminster to Southampton

This is the longest day of the whole trip. I’m 135 miles from home and if I make it, this will be the furthest I’ve ever cycled in a oner. I’m fresh from yesterday’s rest and decide to set off early to make headway…

The day starts badly, I find myself on a slip road to a busy dual carriageway in the dark and mist. There is no cycle path by the side. I fruitlessly poke at my phone for about 20 mins. To avoid this bit of road I would have to cycle an extra 10 miles, which just seems too far. I tell my self to toughen up and ride it. I attached my emergency back up lights (alongside my other riding in the dark lights), and remind myself I’m wearing the worlds shiniest reflective jacket. Lit up like a Christmas tree, I pedal on. Actually it’s not so bad, being dual carriageway driver are able to use the other lane to pass me.

Dawn breaking on Gloucestershire, Sunrise makes everything better.

Pretty soon dawn comes, the mist clears, and everything feels better. I’m speeding along making good time again. I can see the Cotswolds ahead of me and I feel like I’m properly in the south of England. I enjoy a quick coffee stop in Cheltenham and then I’m climbing over the Cotswolds. It’s easier than I expected, possibly because I’ve been anticipating it. the short sharp climbs I didn’t spot when route planning are the ones I find most energy zapping.

Soon I arrive in Swindon, I’m still 60 miles from home but this is the last feasible bail point for trains. If I crash and burn  after this I’ll have to resort to summoning the parental rescue wagon and I don’t think they’ll be happy about it. I’m feeling strong I think I’ve got anther 60 miles in me, so I carry on.

Greasy spoon lunch
Check out that coronation mug

Next, I cross the North Wessex Downs AONB, I’m on a mix of back roads and gravel track, the rolling country side flies past. It looks spectacular against the setting sun. I make a mental note to come back and explore in the future.

The last big milestone is crossing the A303 (for Scottish people this road is a bit like the A9 of the South West). I check my Garmin, only 25 miles to go! For the first time I feel confident I’m going to make it. I fire up my night lights and get peddling, the last bit passes in a blur. The back roads of Hampshire are a delight to cycle on, I feel like I'm flying as I pass through Middle Wallop (that name has always made me chuckle).

I’m getting closer and closer to home, funnily I don’t recognise any of the roads, until I’m about 5 miles out. Finally, at 7:30 pm on Christmas Eve, I arrive a sweaty mess, on Mum and Dad’s door step. I’m hustled inside with just enough time to shower before dinner.

Home! Just time for a quick bike selfie before knocking on the door

What an adventure, what a way to get home for Christmas!

..............

People have asked quite a few questions about this trip, here are the answers to some of them…

Did you cycle back again? No, I got the train! One way was quite enough!

Were your parents worried? I think they expect this kind of thing from me by now, the only query mum had was how I planned to cross the A303. I was more worried they didn’t take me seriously when I told them they were the emergency standby vehicle for the final day!

Where did you stay/you didn’t camp did you: I stayed in Premier Inn’s because they are so bike friendly. I’d loved to have camped, but with no way to charge anything this would not have worked. (in fact charging was a logistical challenge anyway I carried a Garmin, phone, smartwatch, 3xfront lights, 3xbacklights, headphones and battery pack which all needed charging)

Would you do it again? Maybe, although I’d like camp it if I did it again, I’d just need to invest in a dynamo hub first! Also I’m very aware that I lucked out with the weather, I doubt I get a forecast so promising again.

Did you carry clothes to wear over the break? I had one set of clothes to wear in the evenings but I also relied on my mum and sister for clothes and shoes. Fortunately we’re all about the same size.

Did you carry all your Christmas presents? No. This is why internet shopping was invented!

I guess you put your feet up over the rest of Christmas? Nope!

Having a bash on mum's brompton,
the annual boxing day family ride, a casual 60km